The Mirgan tribal communities in Odisha’s Koraput district have been weaving Kotpad handloom for more than a century. This technique is known for its simplicity and hand-dyed cottons in red, black and brown.

The saris are categorised based on rituals and have distinct motifs. For example, the kumbhakarno pata is a bridal sari with an elaborate pallu and borders adorned with kumbha motifs. The sunder mani pata, worn on special events, has two broad bands on the pallu and motifs on either side of these bands. Men can also use this style as a tuval or lower garment. This art form was certified with the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2005.

Noted artists and scholars have worked with the Mirgan communities to showcase this craft. This includes textile artist Pankaja Sethi, and Bengaluru-based revivalist Anupriya Mridha. A documentary by Biswanath Rath, Kotpad Weaving: The Story of a Race Against Time, received six awards and recognition at 33 film festivals globally. It narrates the challenges faced by this languishing textile tradition.