
The Craft
Gemstone Strings
Rajasthan
Precious stones strung in silk from Jaipur
The Patwa community of Rajasthan perfected the art of threading gemstones into jewellery. The name Patwa comes from the word pat, meaning silk. The community believes it has descended from Lord Vishnu, and that it had his blessings to create silk thread jewellery in order to earn a livelihood.

The Making
Gemstone stringing is essentially about a careful selection of gemstones, which can either match perfectly in size, clarity, shape, and colour, or each stone can be different from the other in type and size. They undergo a thorough cleaning and polishing process. Rough stones like emeralds and rubies are refined by tumbling them in a rotating barrel with abrasives and water. Holes are made using a rotating diamond-tipped rod or tube. Once shaped and prepared, gemstones are expertly strung together by the Patwas with metal wire, silk, or cotton thread using unique knotting and wrapping techniques. The strings are created in a single colour or in combinations of multi-coloured stones. They are arranged in various patterns, ranging from multiple strands to geometric designs to those tightened with sarafas (adjustable thread strings), finished with a metallic clasp or fishhook.
The Legacy
Gemstone jewellery found favour with Mughal royals and Rajput kings and queens. The aristocracy loved how the blue lapis lazuli, the teal of turquoise, the green of emeralds and the red glint of rubies came together to create beautiful jewellery for them. Moonstone, opal, sapphire, tourmaline, and other gems were and continue to be used extensively.
Memory Vault
Set inside a 100-year-old haveli, the Khazana Mahal in Jaipur is a museum with 2000-odd pieces of jewellery including gemstones strung into exquisite jewels. They keep company with other artworks drawn from the history of Rajasthan and its folklore.
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