Jalakdozi, or the chain-stitch crewel embroidery, is a labour intensive craft, but a labour of love from the Kashmir Valley. The karigars or craftsmen spend hours working on the intricate motifs that embellish shawls, rugs, etc.

There are several theories about the origin of Jalakdozi embroidery. Most consider it to have evolved from the pre-loom crocheting times. Mughal patronage of the craft and its emergence in the 16th century is also well documented. This style became popular because it can be used for many different household and personal items like rugs, dhurries, tapestries, wall hangings, shawls, and clothes. The motifs are of flowers and plants, influenced by Persian traditions. One such recurring icon is the hyan (mango).

There is a story that says that Jalakdozi began almost 700 years ago during the time of Shah Hamadan. The revered saint is well-recorded as a patron to the Kani shawl industry and other crafts in the latter half of 14th century. Some researchers suggest traders from Damascus, a city at the centre of the Silk Road, brought their own version of crewel embroidery to India in the 13th century. The book Collecting Aari: The Amazing Crewel Embroidery of Kashmir, by Rita Laws, goes into detail about this beautiful craft.