Chikankari uses more than 30 stitches that create a lace-like, monochromatic effect. The embroiderers use three kinds of stitches to get the desired effect. They are the flat stitches, the embossed stitches, and the jaali (lattice) work. Bold or delicate detailing covers the material being embroidered. Artists undergo training to learn florals, geometrical, and stylised patterns. They can train for several years and often specialise in specific stitches. At one time, Chikankari was the domain of male karigars (craftsmen). In the late 19th century it lost some of its popularity. But, over time, women began to take up the needle and that is when the story of Chikankari caught the attention of fashion designers, who used the art form to great effect.