Indian tussar silk, also called the wild silk, is harvested from the forests of Eastern and Central India. Also known as Kosa in Sanskrit, the fibres are collected from Antheraea mylitta moths, which feed on the leaves of jamun and oak trees. It has a grainy texture and golden glow compared to mulberry silk. Traditionally, tussar silk is harvested in Bihar, West Bengal, and Odisha. In recent years, Madhya Pradesh and Jharkhand too have started growing this variety of silk. Now, Jharkhand has emerged as one of the largest sericulture centres given the work of the Kharsawa community.

Some common motifs on tussar silk sarees include flowers, fishes, tortoises, and geometric patterns. However, the curvilinear and nature-inspired designs of Odisha are seen prominently on this fabric. Tussar is used as a base for a variety of weaves. The Assamese variant, geecha, is sometimes woven with slightly stiffer unwashed yarn for a unique texture. Even Odisha’s complex Pattachitra paintings are inked on tussar silk. Other crafts that use tussar silk include Rajasthani hand-block printing, Kalamkari of Andhra Pradesh, Ajrakh of Kachchh, or Dabu block prints.

The tussar traditions from the Gopalpur district of Odisha received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2009. It's famous for the use of Brahmani River water in the making process and known for its sheen. The Keonjhar and Mayurbhanj districts of Bihar are also rich in tussar production.

The colour of tussar depends on the climate and the diet of the silkworms. Natural tussar can come in off-white, cream, honey, beige, tan, or golden colours. When the Portuguese first arrived in India, during the 16th and 17th centuries, they brought along limited clothes on their ships. They commissioned clothing in India, which were a hybrid mix of European styles and Indian techniques. For example, Spanish capes were made in Bengal by mixing cotton with tussar. They were soon declared as exquisite merchandise, even gifted as part of diplomatic efforts.

Any information on this page is anecdotal and based on publicly available details. If you're interested in learning more, click here.