THE CRAFT

Sujani Hand Embroidery

From the state of Bihar
Bihar
Sujani, also known as Sujini, is a form of embroidery with its roots in Bihar's Bhusura village. During ancient times, it took the form of quilting, where old sarees and dhotis were repurposed into a creative canvas. These artists use delicate running stitches for embroidered motifs of deities, blossoms, and peacock designs. Over time, artisans have started working on Indian outfits like sarees, kurtas, and dupattas.
Heritage Value
This traditional technique can be traced back to the 1920s. Initially practiced by Rajput women, "Sujani" gets its name from su, (enablement), and jani (birth). The artists first transfer their designs onto the base material with tracing wheels and sheets. They outline the background using delicate running stitches. Then, black or brown threads are used to contour motifs, while colourful threads are added for vibrancy. The tool kit of a Sujani artisan includes all they need to work on their craft. It includes needles, frames, threads of assorted hues, scissors, measuring tape, tracing sheets, tracing wheels, pencils, erasers, blue chalk, and kerosene.

The craft was certified with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2006.
Memory Vault
A Sujani-embroidered quilt communicates diverse messages from the community. Some of these stories might be controversial to the modern collector but are important in the historical context. These can range from stories of intoxicated men with their spouses to the stories of women observing purdah and the practice of dowry.

Nevertheless, Sujani is seen as an expressive textile of embroideries that narrate untold stories.
Disclaimer:
Any information on this page is anecdotal and based on publicly available details. If you're interested in learning more, click here.
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