Sozni is a refined form of hand embroidery from Kashmir. A style of needlework, it involves embroidering both sides of the fabric. This art form originated in Central Asia in the early 12th century. Sozni embroidery predominantly adorned shawls, large carpets and throws. Common motifs include flowers, vines, paisleys, and chinar leaves.

The process of adorning a shawl with Sozni embroidery unfolds through several stages. Once a design is conceptualised, a naqash (pattern maker) draws it onto graph paper using geometric techniques. Then, a wooden block (made of walnut wood), is immersed in chemical ink, and carefully stamped over the shawl. The stamped shawl is then entrusted to a master artisan, who approves the design and selects colours for the embroidery.

Finally, the stitching is worked on. Techniques include open chain, couching, buttonhole, and the locally famous herringbone stitch, known as the Kashmiri stitch.

Sozni art was certified with its Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2008.

This year, David Housego and Mandeep Nagi, co-founders of design house Shades of India displayed Bukhara: A Journey on The Silk Route at the Crafts Museum in Delhi. This included their private collection of ancient textiles. Soznis from mid-19th Century were a highlight. The extraordinary pieces showed the impact of Indian sensibility on Central Asian textiles.

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