Jalakdozi, or chain-stitch crewel embroidery, is a signature style from the Kashmir Valley. Using wool, cotton or silk threads, Kashmiri karigars (craftsmen) use a traditional needle with a hook and a wooden handle called aari for this stitch.

Kashmiri crewelwork, like most crafts, is labor-intensive and time-consuming. Various traditional items from the valley, like shawls and rugs feature this embroidery technique.

There are several theories about the origin of Jalakdozi embroidery. Most consider it to have evolved from pre-loom crocheting. Mughal patronage of the craft and its emergence in the 16th century is also well documented.

In true Kashmiri tradition, first the naqaash (pattern maker) meticulously traces a design on the fabric. Then, the designs are transferred onto tightly woven dusoot (cotton fabric), which acts like a canvas. This base fabric can also be rayon, silk or pashmina.

Artisans create Jalakdozi by guiding the woollen thread across the designs and manoeuvring the aari with precise alignment. This style became popular because it can be used for many different household and personal items like rugs, dhurries, tapestries, wall hangings, shawls, and clothes.

The designs prominently feature flowers and plants, influenced by Persian motifs. One such recurring icon is the amiya (mango).

There is a historical tale that Jalakdozi began almost 700 years ago during the time of Shah Hamadan. The revered saint is well-recorded as a patron to the Kani shawl industry and other crafts in the latter half of 14th Century.

Some researchers suggest traders from Damascus, a city at the centre of the Silk Road, brought their own version of crewel embroidery to India in the 13th century.

The book Collecting Aari: The Amazing Crewel Embroidery of Kashmir, by Rita Laws, goes into great detail about this beautiful craft.

Any information on this page is anecdotal and based on publicly available details. If you're interested in learning more, click here.