Chikankari, the embroidery of Lucknow, originally involved white thread embroidery on white cotton cloth. Historically, it thrived most under the patronage of Mughal queen, Nur Jahan. By the 19th century, it became popular in Lucknow under the patronage of Nasir-ud-Din Haider, the second king of Oudh.

This treasured craft has a storied past spanning the last three centuries. Chikankari uses more than 30 stitches to create different lace-like or monochromatic effects. There are three domains of stitches, flat stitches, embossed stitches, and jaali work. The material being embroidered will have opaque or transparent areas, emphasised with bold or delicate details, or outlines depending on design.

Once crafted by male karigars, the craft lost some popularity in the late 19th century. Over time, women carried the craft forward. That’s where the story of Chikankari caught the attention of fashion designers, who took its finesse to great heights. They helped reinvent its patterns and revitalised the use of mukaish (metallic surface embellishment). They also introduced the use of colour, ombre dyed fabrics as well as white embroidery on materials like silk tussar to georgette, chiffon, and pre-dyed material. Artists train to learn florals, geometrical, and stylised patterns. They can train for several years and often specialise in specific stitches.

Chikankari was certified with the Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2008.

Anjuman, a 1986 Hindi film by designer-filmmaker Muzaffar Ali centred on exploited chikan embroiderers fighting for their rights. The film starrted Shabana Azmi and Farooque Shaikh. Shaikh was quite fascinated by the craft. He decided to wear only chikankari garments off-screen, following the film.

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